Goa Water StoriesGoa Water Stories

The Oyster Shell Windowpanes

Read Time 14 mins
Keywords
Oyster
Windowpanes
Shells
Architecture
Cyanotypes
This collaborative work is between an artist and a photographer-researcher. Bhawana’s artwork captures the diversity of Goa's nature and culture on oyster shells, while Elisha photographs and researches an endangered species as she explores memories of her shapai (grand uncle). Through this work, they preserve a community's memory and oral histories: including a traditional recipe, its architecture, and the interconnectedness between oysters and the riparian spaces we inhabit together
Every window has a story to tell from each home or vaddo (neighbourhood). But this tale feels different, more urgent in its need to share stories from our motherland. It's the story of our homes, the ones that root us in memories of growing up in Goi (Goa). Some of these houses are known for their beautiful Indo-Portuguese architecture. I remember the unique windowpanes, made from nacre, also known as mother-of-pearl or oyster shells. Scientists call it Placuna placenta (Linnaeus), but in Goi, we know them as calva chi Karpa or Kovllam chim zonellam.
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AMBROSE CARDOZO
my grandfather

When I was a child, my shapai used to tell me many folktales that mesmerized me and left me pondering them for a long time. One such story was about a famous trading voyager named Inacio de Vales, who travelled from Portuguese-occupied Goa to the Philippines. He was accompanied by a crew of 14 people from various occupations: a carpenter, a seaman, a fisherman, a mechanic, a chef, and others. However, the Portuguese army considered them all slaves. The Portuguese, driven by the pursuit of God, glory, and gold, were considered one of the wealthiest and most formidable forces of their time.

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One day, upon reaching an island, they saw fishermen holding their nets for the next catch, women collecting and sorting shells, and a toddy tapper climbing trees to collect coconuts. Inacio told his crew to explore the area and search for food. The chef, following a delightful aroma, reached a boat shack where women were cooking. They were handling large flat shells with small orange-coloured flesh attached, placing them in a basket. Once the basket was full, a man would take it away to the island. Intrigued, the chef collected some of these shells and took them back to the ship.

Goa Water Stories
Diversity in Goa’s Nature and Culture (Collection)
MEDIUM: Cyanotype Size: A5
Goa Water Stories
Diversity in Goa’s Nature and Culture (Collection)
MEDIUM: Cyanotype Size: A5
Goa Water Stories
Diversity in Goa’s Nature and Culture (Collection)
MEDIUM: Cyanotype Size: A5
Goa Water Stories
Diversity in Goa’s Nature and Culture (Collection)
MEDIUM: Cyanotype Size: A5
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UNTITLED
MEDIUM: Cyanotype Size: A1

Meanwhile, the carpenter was fascinated by the beautiful windows on the island, where craftsmen were fixing the same type of large shells onto window frames. Inspired, he also collected the shells and brought them back to the ship. When Inacio saw the baskets filled with these shells, he was furious and demanded an explanation. The carpenter and chef explained what they had observed, and the other crew members shared how the locals used sea ornaments to create showpieces, jewellery and crafts. Inacio remembered that the king had announced a reward for the best idea to replace glass, as it was very expensive. He returned to Portuguese Goa, met the king, and presented the idea of using these shells. The king was impressed and instructed the fisherfolk to start collecting these shells in large quantities. Over the years, in Bardez, Ilhas, and Salcete, the houses of the wealthy upper class featured traditional windowpanes and crafts made from these shells.

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But soon, the fisherfolk realized that the number of shells was dwindling. The once-abundant shells were becoming scarce. I always wondered, where have all these oyster shells gone from the sea, and will they ever return to these shores? This story makes me think about the delicate balance of nature and how human activities can lead to unforeseen consequences. The depletion of these shells serves as a stark reminder of the importance of sustainable practices and the urgent need to respect and preserve our natural resources for future generations.

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Today, windowpane oyster shells are exceedingly rare due to unsustainable exploitation and are now classified as endangered. They are now listed in Schedule IV of the Wildlife Protection Act, where extraction is strictly prohibited. This ban addresses the consequences of overexploitation and habitat destruction, both of which stem from human ignorance and disregard for nature. By restricting extraction, authorities aim to help mitigate further depletion of these shells and protect their habitats. This regulatory action is essential for the conservation and sustainability of these valuable marine resources. Local stakeholders must be made aware of sustainable fishing practices and the critical benefits of maintaining healthy ecosystems.

When I was a little girl, I remember that windowpane oyster shells were once a common feature in every traditional Goan home, particularly those of upper-caste families during the Portuguese colonial era. The makers of these windows were skilled artisans from the Chari community. They were traditional Hindu carpenters and artists, with carpentry as their primary occupation. The wood used for these windows was primarily teak, which they preserved in saltwater. The salt extracted moisture from the wood, preventing fungi and insects from causing decay.

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Windowpane oysters were bivalve marine mollusks, and it took four to five years for their shells to grow to a large size, about 150mm (5.9in) in diameter. While their flesh was edible, it was the shells that were more highly admired. These shells were used for decorative purposes, such as handicrafts and windowpanes, and also served as raw materials for glue, paint, chalk, and varnish. The products made from these shells were exported to economically richer countries. For the windowpanes, the wood was framed in a certain pattern, and the shells were cut into square, rectangular, or lattice shapes. These were then slid into wooden battens to create the window. The outer side of the shell was silvery white with a dull finish, while the inner side was a smooth, glossy nacreous white.

In Goa, these shells were mostly found in Chicalim Bay and Nauxim Bay. The windowpane oysters lived in brackish coastal waters. There were a lot of challenges in maintaining these shells because once they broke, they couldn't be fixed, only replaced with another shell. “It’s very rare to find these shells nowadays because of the movement of the barge vessels and water pollution,” says Vishvanath, a fisherfolk from Nauxim Bay.
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Nauxium Bay
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Chicalim Bay
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Nauxium Bay
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Chicalim Bay
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Nauxium Bay
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Chicalim Bay
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Nauxium Bay
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Chicalim Bay

The use of oyster shells or nacre instead of glass in windows was initially due to various reasons, such as the scarcity and high cost of window glass. Another reason was privacy, as many windows faced the main road, and people didn’t want outsiders peeping into their homes. Additionally, due to the climatic conditions, these translucent shells allowed enough light in without being fully transparent, which helped keep rooms cool. During the 16th century, these shells were widely used in the Portuguese colonies in India. I remember learning that the shells were an important part of our culture. They were not only beautiful but also carried a rich history. It always made me wonder about the stories and traditions that were tied to these unique windowpanes

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“These oyster windows are like treasure,” said Ranjeev Fernandes, a descendant from Vhoddlem Ghor, the oldest and famously known as the Fernandes Heritage House in Chandor. I remember him telling us about the Manueline architecture, also known as Portuguese late Gothic. It was known for its creative and unconventional use of arch forms, like pointed trefoil arches, horseshoe arches, segmental arches, and polylobed arches. These forms created a sense of dynamism and innovation in Portuguese buildings of the time. Trefoil arches were common in Gothic architecture for portals and decoration, especially in Christian houses, as they symbolized the Holy Trinity. Ranjeev explained how these arches added layers of meaning to architectural elements, highlighting the fusion of different cultural identities that define Goan heritage. Goa's multicultural heritage and religious diversity, particularly in architecture, showcase a fascinating blend of Indian and Portuguese influences, reflected prominently in its windows.
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Diversity in Goa’s Nature and Culture (Collection)
MEDIUM: Cyanotype Size: A5
Diversity in Goa’s Nature and Culture (Collection)
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Goan Green Masala Oyster Recipe

Preparation Time

20 mins.

unsung recipe FROM my grandmother

Cooking Time

45 to 50 mins.

Ingredients

330gm Oyster
½ tsp Turmeric powder
3/4 Small potatoes
2 Medium onion (finely chopped)
1 Large tomato (finely chopped)
½ Small lime

The Green Masala Paste
1 small bunch Green coriander
4 - 5 Light green chillies
1 Ginger chopped
7 - 8 Garlic cloves  
8 to 10 Cloves
1tsp Turmeric powder
1 Small piece cinnamon
½ tsp Cumin seeds
2½ tsp  Tamarind juice/sauce 
2tsp Lemon juice
3 tsp Oil
1 tsp Salt

Preparation Time

20 mins.

Cooking Time

45 to 50 mins.

Method of Preperation

  • Grind all the ingredients for the green masala into a paste using a little water.
  • cut the oyster and make sure it's cleaned . Wash and drain it well. Apply 1tsp. salt, turmeric and lime juice and keep aside let it marinate.
  • Peel the potatoes and cut them into fat slices. 1tsp salt to water and soak the potato slices in it.
  • Heat the vessel or mud pot then after heating  add 3 tbsp. oil in a vessel and add the onion till light brownish colour on medium heat. Add the tomato and saute till soft.
  • Next add the marinated oyster and saute till the colour changes (about 5 minutes).
  • Add the masala paste and mix well. Saute on low heat for 6 to 8 minutes.

  • Add 1cup warm water  and  ½ tsp salt and cook the oyster covered on low heat for 25 to 30 minutes till almost done.

  • Meanwhile take a pan,  deep/shallow fry the potato roundels separately till light brown and keep aside.

  • When the Oyster is almost done, add fried potatoes. Check for salt and add if required. Cook covered on low heat for another 5 minutes. Switch off the heat and serve hot.

Bibliography & References

  1. Mysterious seashells found in the hills of Goa
     https://itsgoa.com/mysterious-seashells-found-hills-goa
  2. On a Chicalim hillside, a trove of windowpane oyster deposit
    https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/goa/on-a-chicalim-hillside-a-trove-of-windowpane-oyster-deposits/articleshow/58885779.cms
  3. Goa government project threatens Chicalam Bay's windowpane oysters

    https://www.mid-day.com/sunday-mid-day/article/Goa-government-project-threatens-Chicalam-Bay-s-windowpane-oysters-16911188
  4. Status of Windowpane oyster Placuna placenta (Linnaeus) population in Goa
    https://drs.nio.res.in/drs/bitstream/handle/2264/824/7_Indian_Conf_Mar_Archaeol_I.O_Countries_2005_130.pdf
  5. An Ancient Window Pane Oyster Bed In Goa

    http://eprints.cmfri.org.in/622/1/Article_08.pdf
  6. The Unwritten Rules of Oyster Fishing

    https://www.goya.in/blog/the-unwritten-rules-of-oyster-fishing-goa
  1. Locals urged to protect windowpane oysters

    https://www.navhindtimes.in/2023/05/16/goanews/locals-urged-to-protect-windowpane-oysters/
  2. After a decade, windowpane oysters back on Tiswadi shore

    https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/goa/after-a-decade-windowpane-oysters-back-on-tiswadi-shore/articleshow/100686537.cms
  3. Who knew that shells could be used to make windows!

    https://www.gomantaktimes.com/my-goa/art-culture/traditional-goan-shell-windows
  4. The glorious days of the ornate oyster shell windows

    https://www.heraldgoa.in/Cafe/The-glorious-days-of-the-ornate-oyster-shell-windows/194515
  5. Goa’s Oyster Shell Windowpanes

    https://www.joinpaperplanes.com/goas-oyster-shell-windowpanes/
  6. History and prospects for the sustainability and circularity of the windowpanes oyster placuna placenta fishery in the Philippines. 

    https://www.mdpi.com/2410-3888/8/10/493

Acknowledgements

I want to thank Mr. Ranjeev Fernandes and Mr Vishvanath Naik for their insights into oral research.  I am also very grateful to Dr Glenis Mendonca, the Head of the English Department at Carmel College, Nuvem, for her support, inspiration and advice. 

A big thank you to my parents and friends for their guidance, encouragement, suggestions and constructive criticism. Your help has been so important in shaping my ideas towards finishing this project on time.