Mr Khandeparkar
Mr. Khandeparker, a member of the Maruti Temple committee and a lifelong resident of Mala, shares his deep connection with the area, especially since he lives near the local spring. He hopes that Mala remains unchanged, emphasizing the need to preserve the environment as it is, warning that failing to do so could have adverse effects on the community and ecosystem.
When asked about the issue of flooding, Mr. Khandeparker acknowledges that it tends to occur temporarily during the monsoon season. However, he notes that the floodwater pumping project has made a positive impact, helping to reduce the extent of flooding in the area. His concern for the environment, coupled with his recognition of the importance of infrastructure improvements, reflects a balanced view of Mala’s challenges and the need for sustainable solutions.
Mr Krishna
In this conversation, Krishna, a local small business owner, shares his perspective on how the area has changed over the past eight years. He recalls that there used to be a shack that gradually moved, and now the area has become more bustling with new developments, including a bridge that has attracted more tourists. He sees tourism as beneficial for business and recognizes the importance of some level of development.
Krishna believes that change should start with people themselves, focusing on personal growth. He also notes that the market is evolving and future changes will depend on the government's plans. Despite the uncertainties, Krishna remains optimistic and humorously offers to treat others to paan once more progress is made.
Mr Sadanad
Sadanand a clerk, who has been with the firm for about 20 years and has worked there since 2010, reflects on the transformations in the local area. Prior to 2010, boats regularly docked at the jetty primarily for diesel supplies; now, they rely on them for a broader range of necessities. An increasing number of boats visit for diesel, spare parts, and groceries, greatly enhancing convenience for the workers. Malim has also experienced notable changes, especially regarding the quality and variety of fish available at the jetty. While tourism predominantly flourishes in Verem, Malim attracts visitors primarily for its seafood offerings. Sadanand observes significant environmental shifts; birds such as cranes, egrets, and kingfishers still frequent the area, but they now come mainly to feed on fish. Once common, peacocks and other birds have become less visible due to the rise in noise, traffic, and construction, contributing to a less tranquil atmosphere than in years past.
Mr Nirmal Kulkarni
In this conversation, with Nirmal Kulkarni a herpetologist, field ecologist, conservationist, and wildlife photographer, Chairman of the Mhadei Research Centre, Team Lead of Hypnale Research Station and Director of Wildernest Nature Resort, an eco-tel in the Chorla Ghats.
Tourism has taken a significant role. When I say tourism, it is primarily as a transit point to the major beach belt of Candolim and Calangute. Around that, the riverfront is now used by small boats and fishing vessels, and more recently by casinos—a notable trend I’ve observed over the last 15 years. This has rapidly altered not only the landscape of Vere but also its cultural and ecological nature. I believe the same applies to Panjim. We've grown up viewing Panjim differently, and now its visual nature and overall vibe have changed, primarily due to the overwhelming presence of casinos. Looking to the future, unless a different approach is identified, felt, and understood by the people living along these banks—both in Vere and Panjim—the growth will likely continue upward and deepen. Discussions are already underway about smaller jetties and ports on both sides, as well as plans to dredge channels to accommodate more yachts and vessels, with a view to developing the area into a marina. The new development includes the revamped Aguada jetty, an old historic jetty now geared towards tourism. Verem and Panjim were both busy ports historically, and this potential has been recognized by those involved in policy and infrastructure planning. My only concern is that these developments should not disturb the ecology of these places, as they are at the mouth of an important river. Just last week, an Olive Ridley turtle was spotted nesting at Miramar, which has happened before but is noteworthy. I haven’t deeply considered what the future holds for these important areas, but it is clear that the landscape and ecology are facing significant challenges. Indicator species are shifting frequently. For example, we used to see schools of dolphins in the river when crossing by ferry, but we don’t see them anymore. Water quality has also changed over time, and visual pollution has impacted bird diversity and nocturnal species like bats. I am more focused on the current impacts on these places rather than the future, but I am concerned about the ecological aspects. Regarding infrastructure, plans are already in place to consider extending marinas to Panjim. Given the precarious condition of the rivers and the Mhadai diversion, how do you think it will affect the mouth of the river area? Based on what I’ve read, the diversion could increase salinity as seawater ingresses, affecting marine life in the river, particularly fisheries. The diversity of species will likely change, and studies by NIO and BITS Pillani on climate change and sea effects could be valuable resources for understanding these impacts. Diversions can also affect siltation processes and impact communities reliant on the river, including traditional fishermen and the Rappon Kars. Regarding groundwater, our sensorial mapping with the Goa College of Architecture students showed that some wells are now unusable due to pollution and neglect. Groundwater health is connected to sewage systems, which are in disarray in many village areas. Wells, once integral to daily life, are now often neglected or repurposed, resulting in a loss of their significance and deterioration in water quality. This issue, along with river pollution—including microplastics—highlights the need for better awareness and protection of river ecosystems. Depletion or contamination of groundwater affects biodiversity, including birds, amphibians, reptiles, and fish. Microbial diversity and plant matter are also impacted. Additionally, the introduction of invasive species, such as the red-eared slider and African catfish, is a growing concern. More long-term studies are needed in Goa to fully understand these impacts. The Mhadai Research Centre, based in Surla, primarily focuses on the forest areas of the Western Ghats, with some work on crocodiles along the coast. We are involved in species research, human-wildlife interactions, and eco-cultural aspects. Our recent work included long-term monitoring of a plateau ecosystem and a riverine ecology system, as well as providing data for the Mhadai case. We also engage in community awareness efforts. In collaboration with the Goa College of Architecture, we are exploring the built environment around rivers, including drains, embankments, and bridges. We conducted sensorial mapping to better understand the connection between architecture and rivers. For example, we are considering different scales for our documentation, such as fish swimming from Fontainhas to Rua do Ourem, or kites observing Panjim from above. We are looking into freshwater fish that can tolerate brackish water and will consult with an expert for detailed insights. Thank you for your time and insights. We look forward to presenting our work on the 29th and incorporating your feedback.
Mr Sameer Bandodkar
Mr. Sameer Bandodkar, a lawyer who has lived in Mala since birth, comes from a family that has occupied their home in the area for the past 80 years. He observes that Mala is slowly losing its original character due to the rise of modern constructions. He expresses a strong desire for Mala to retain its traditional essence and laments the changes that are altering the landscape. He also mentions a concerning trend of original inhabitants moving out of the area, further contributing to the loss of its historic identity.
Additionally, Mr. Bandodkar shares an interesting insight about Mala Lake. He explains that the area was once a field, but due to rampant construction on the surrounding hills, water began to accumulate, turning the field into what is now known as Mala Lake. His reflections highlight the intertwined effects of urbanization and the gradual transformation of this historic neighbourhood.
Mrs Suchita
Mrs. Suchita, a housewife who has lived in the Mala area for the past 25 years, reflects on how the neighbourhood has changed. She recalls a time when they did not have proper access to their house, but notes that things have improved over the years. Looking 50 years into the future, she hopes for further positive developments, particularly the conversion of the footpath access to their homes into a more formal and proper access route. Her vision reflects both an appreciation for progress and a desire for continued improvement in infrastructure for the community.
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Manisha is an architect and through her project, she documents, analyses and understands the role of the river in Goa by mapping the built environment (riparian infrastructure). Through a collaboration with students from the Goa College of Architecture, this project explores and constructs maps of various kinds utilising sensorial and ethnographic processes.
Goa is home to 11 rivers, with the Mandovi being its largest and the Zuari its longest. Despite its relatively short length of 111 kilometres1 compared to rivers like the Ganga or Cauvery, the Mandovi holds immense significance. It drains an area of approximately 15,580 square kilometres out of Goa's total geographical expanse of 3,701 square kilometers, providing the highest volume of freshwater. Often hailed as Goa's "lifeline", the Mandovi plays a crucial role in supplying essential resources such as fish, drinking water, and irrigation water to the region.
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Geographical setting of the River
We study and trace the journey of the Mahadayi-Mhadei-Mandovi River, as it transcends political boundaries, beginning at its source, as it enters Goa, winding through diverse altitudes and eventually converging at Panjim where it meets the Arabian Sea. Originating as the Mahadayi River within Karnataka's Bhimgad Sanctuary amid a network of swift springs and streams, it transforms into the Mandovi River, meandering through dense, evergreen forests within one of the largest continuous expanses of national parks and sanctuaries in the Western Ghats. Along its path through Karnataka and Maharashtra before entering Goa, the river sustains diverse wildlife and human populations, serving as a vital water source for millions. In the upper reaches of Goa's Sattari Valley, it is known as the Mhadei. Upon merging with the Khandepar River at Bembol in Bicholim, it adopts the name Mandovi until it flows into the Arabian Sea near Panaji.
Research conducted in 2016 by AK Chaubey of the National Institute of Oceanography revealed that during a glacial period approximately 120,000 to 20,000 years ago, Goa's prominent rivers, the Mandovi and the Zuari, flowed as a single river into the Arabian Sea.
This ancient river exhibited greater depth and volume compared to its current states, separated over millennia due to natural sedimentation processes.
History
Although officially established in 1987, Goa's history stretches back to ancient times, weaving a rich narrative intertwined with Indian history, particularly colonial influences and a multicultural ethos. Geological studies dating back to 10,000 BC and archaeological discoveries, such as Acheulean bifaces in the Mandovi-Zuari basin, indicate human presence since the Lower Palaeolithic Age. Noteworthy examples like the Usgalimal rock engravings, from the Upper Palaeolithic or Mesolithic periods, stand as India's earliest evidence of settlement. During the Iron Age, Goa was governed by various empires, including the Mauryan and Satavahana. Through the medieval era, powers like the Kadamba kingdom, Vijayanagara Empire, and later the Bahmani Sultanate and Bijapur Sultanate held sway over the region. During the 15th-century, Goa prospered under the Sultanate of Bijapur as a maritime trade hub. Strategically positioned, its ports became vital nodes for trading spices, textiles, and precious metals, connecting with the Middle East, East Africa, and Southeast Asia. Competition among rival powers over trade routes shaped Goa's economic landscape.
Vasco da Gama's arrival in Calicut in 1498 marked the start of European involvement, culminating in Portuguese conquest in 1510. Portuguese rule endured for over four centuries, leaving enduring imprints on Goan culture, cuisine, and architecture. They undertook infrastructural projects along the Mandovi River, including ports and warehouses, pivotal for trading spices and silk between India and Europe. Old Goa, situated on the Mandovi River, flourished as a commercial centre, with Portuguese-built quays and wharves facilitating maritime trade. Albuquerque's capture of Goa underpins its historical significance. Positioned strategically on the Malabar coast, Goa's natural harbour made it easily defensible, with ample depth for ships and secure anchorage.
However, in the 17th century, Malaria and cholera epidemics devastated the city, leading to its near abandonment, with only 1,500 residents remaining by 1775. Against the backdrop of Old Goa's decline, the idea of Panjim becoming the capital of Goa gained momentum. On December 1, 1759, Viceroy Dom Manuel de Saldanha de Albuquerque, Count of Ega, relocated his residence from Panelim (near Old Goa) to Panjim, housed in the newly renovated Adil Shah Fort, later known as "Idalcao's Palace." The title of the "Father of Panjim" is attributed to Viceroy Dom Manuel de Castro de Portugal (1826-1835), who initiated land reclamation, public projects, drainage systems, and government buildings, laying the foundation for Panjim's transformation into a splendid city. By royal decree on March 22, 1843, Panjim was elevated to a city status and named "Nova Goa." Electrification reached the city in 1931, and it has since undergone various transformations under different administrations.
Area of Study
For our study, we map a section of the Mandovi River, focusing on Panjim and Verem. Panjim, Goa’s current capital, represents an urban setting, while Verem, situated on the northern bank of the Mandovi River, is a village that has undergone significant recent changes. This study aims to explore the interrelationships between these areas, as both Panjim and Verem contribute to the hydrological system of the Mandovi Watershed, forming contrasting yet vital settlements along the riverbanks.
In Panjim, freshwater springs, creeks, and lakes like Fonte Phoenix hold cultural and ecological significance, providing essential freshwater sources for local communities and ecosystems. Boca de Vaca, nestled in natural beauty and cultural heritage, supports biodiversity and offers sanctuary for wildlife within an urban environment. Similarly, Verem, though less renowned, features natural streams originating from its hillsides.
Before the construction of bridges, particularly the Mandovi Bridge in the early 1980s, ferry services were the primary means of crossing the river, connecting Panjim to neighbouring villages such as Nerul and Verem. These traditional ferries, operated by local authorities, transported passengers, vehicles, and goods along various river routes. Before organized ferry services, locals relied on traditional boats like canoes or small wooden vessels, often operated by fishermen or boatmen, for river crossings. Swimming across the river, although practiced for shorter distances or emergencies, was impractical due to the Mandovi River's width and depth.
Panjim showcases Goa's rich cultural and historical heritage through its colonial architecture, vibrant festivals, and religious sites.
With evolving transportation needs, bridges and ferries have become integral to the Mandovi River's riparian infrastructure. Three bridges now span the river between Panjim and Verem: the Mandovi Bridge completed in 1982, the Dhavli Bridge in 1998, and the Atal Setu in 2019. These structures have alleviated traffic congestion and improved connectivity throughout Goa, marking significant advancements in transportation infrastructure. Ferries continue to operate along the Mandovi River, offering an alternative transportation option for people and vehicles.
The Adil Shah Palace, dating back to the 16th century, once served as the residence of Adil Shahi rulers and highlights Goa's pre-colonial history and architectural splendor. Colonial buildings like the customs house along the riverfront reflect Goa's historical role in trade. The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception and Fontainhas, known as the Latin Quarter, with ornate balconies and colorful facades, provide insights into the city's colonial past. Temples such as the Mahalaxmi Temple and Maruti Temple further enrich Panjim's cultural landscape, while annual celebrations like Carnival and Shigmo add vibrancy to the city's cultural calendar.
In contrast, development on the opposite bank, particularly in Verem, caters more to modern tourism and luxury sectors. While Verem lacks Panjim's historical depth, its less developed riverfront offers greater accessibility to the general public. However, private ownership restricts public access along Verem's riverbanks, unlike Panjim where parks and promenades are widely accessible.
The riparian infrastructure along the Mandovi River has significantly shaped urban development in Panjim, and in recent years, Verem and Betim have also seen notable development, though not always beneficial. Despite this, the Mandovi River, particularly in Panjim and neighbouring villages like Verem, Betim, and Ribander, symbolizes the intricate relationship between nature and human civilization.
Beyond its scenic beauty and cultural significance, the river plays a vital ecological role as a biodiversity hotspot with diverse flora and fauna. Estuarine areas serve as critical nurseries for fish, supporting local fisheries and livelihoods, while regulating the hydrological cycle, mitigating flood risks, and replenishing groundwater resources. Riparian vegetation stabilizes riverbanks, mitigates soil erosion, and sequesters carbon, contributing to climate change mitigation. Overall, the ecosystem services provided by the Mandovi River are essential for sustaining human well-being and ecological integrity in the region.
Verem hosts smaller festivals along the river, such as Ganesh Visarjan, albeit on a smaller scale compared to Panjim.
Concern and Current Status of the River
The Mandovi River at Panjim stands at a critical juncture, confronting numerous challenges that threaten its ecological health and the communities it sustains. Pollution poses a primary threat, with industrial waste, untreated sewage, and improper waste disposal contaminating the river. This pollution not only endangers aquatic life but also jeopardizes the health of people relying on the river for domestic purposes. Siltation exacerbates these issues, as erosion from deforested areas and construction sites deposits sediment, reducing the river's depth and disrupting aquatic habitats.
Encroachment and illegal constructions along the riverbanks disrupt its natural flow, increase flood risks, and degrade vital habitats, leading to declining populations of threatened flora and fauna. Unregulated sand mining and unplanned development further accelerate erosion, threatening both riverine ecosystems and agricultural lands.
Water scarcity is exacerbated by competing demands from agriculture, industry, and urban areas, disproportionately affecting marginalized communities dependent on the Mandovi River. Additionally, proposals to nationalize rivers could divert water away from Goa, aggravating local water shortages.
Local initiatives and community engagement, such as river clean-up campaigns and mangrove restoration projects led by grassroots movements and volunteers, promote awareness and stewardship. Activist campaigns like "Amche Mollem" against railway expansion through the Mollem Wildlife Sanctuary and "Mhadei Amchi Mai" to protect the Mandovi River underscore community efforts in safeguarding vital resources. Community-based monitoring enhances understanding of riparian health, informs conservation decisions, and promotes sustainable practices for the Mandovi waterfront.
In summary, addressing these challenges is crucial to preserving the Mandovi River's ecological integrity and supporting local communities. By raising awareness and implementing comprehensive strategies like pollution control, habitat restoration, sustainable land use, and equitable water management, we can rejuvenate and safeguard this invaluable natural resource for future generations. Collaborative efforts and sustained commitment are essential to ensuring the long-term health and resilience of the Mandovi River ecosystem.
Bibliography & References
- Survey of India Topographic sheets. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://thesurveyofindia.gov.in - Panaji (also known as Panjim). (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://www.goa.gov.in/places/panaji-also-known-as-panjim/#:~:text=Around%20this%20time%2C%20against%20the,near%20Old%20Goa)%20to%20Panjim. - Executive Summary With Bleed. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://issuu.com/uep_ntnu/docs/executive_summary_with_bleed#google_vignette - Goa and Karnataka up the stakes in decades-long fight over Mhadei river. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://scroll.in/article/1052573/goa-and-karnataka-up-the-stakes-in-decades-long-fight-over-mhadei-river - The Mhadei is the Mandovi. (2020, January 3). Retrieved from
https://www.goanobserver.in/2020/01/03/the-mhadei-is-the-mandovi/#google_vignette - How can we protect the Mahadayi (Mandovi) river? (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://www.forbesindia.com/article/take-one-big-story-of-the-day/how-can-we-protect-the-mahadayi-mandovi-river/86953/1#:~:text=A%202016%20study%20by%20AK,Arabian%20Sea%20together%20as%20one. - 20,000 years ago, Mandovi and Zuari flowed as one river. (2016, May 9). Retrieved from
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/goa/20000-years-ago-mandovi-and-zuari-flowed-as-one-river/amp_articleshow/52181438.cms - An overview of Portuguese colonial architecture in India. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://www.re-thinkingthefuture.com/designing-for-typologies/a6176-an-overview-of-portuguese-colonial-architecture-in-india/#google_vignette - You will never guess the story behind these architectural elements in Goan homes. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://www.gomantaktimes.com/my-goa/art-culture/you-will-never-guess-the-story-behind-these-architectural-elements-in-goan-homes
- History of Goa. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://dip.goa.gov.in/history-of-goa/ - Usgalimal Rock Engravings. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://map.sahapedia.org/article/Usgalimal-Rock-Engravings/1852 - Araujo, C. (n.d.). HOG (History of Goa). Retrieved from
https://medium.com/@cedricaraujo/hog-history-of-goa-e9f49d33f7fa - The Conquest of Goa by Portuguese - Affonso de Albuquerque. (2020, September 9). Retrieved from
https://advocatetanmoy.com/2020/09/09/the-conquest-of-goa-by-portuguese-affonso-de-albuquerque/
Books
- Trichur, R. (2013). Refiguring Goa. Goa1556.
- MacHarg, I.L. (1971) Design with nature. Garden City u.a.: Doubleday, Natural History Press.
- Bell, S. (1999) Landscape: Pattern, perception and process. London: E & FN Spon.
- Parienkar, P. (2011) Mhadei-Kallzantlyan Kagdar...Paṇaji, Goa: Kalā ānī Sãskr̥tīi Sañchālanālay.
- Dissertations: Unpublished dissertations, Goa college of Architecture
Acknowledgements
This project What is a River? A case of the built environment and the River Mandovi – Mhadei – Mahadeyi was made possible through the collective efforts of different people who have contributed to this research in various ways in the form of drawings, documentation, and discussions.
My core team consists of my colleagues Rhea D’Souza and Siddarth Malur, together we have collected, documented, collated and analysed data, that culminates in this publication.
The students of the third year Bachelor of Architecture at Goa College of Architecture were an integral part of collecting and documenting data as part of an elective conducted by Rhea D’ Souza and her team. This documentation was done through various means including photographs, sketches, interviews etc. for the Panjim portion of our study. The students also assisted in part in analysing and abstracting this data to create abstracts for the publication.
List of Students
- Chelsea
- Shuzanna
- Vaishnavi
- Shravani
- Isha
- Sansha
- Neha
- Raj
- Daniella
- Annalie
- Sachi
- Schiaz
- Shruti
- Pranab
- Vidhant
- Yashwant
- Rhutu
- Akanksha
- Zuriel
- Aradhana
- Rupal
- Evanthika
Ryan Bhengra for help with photography, video and audio recording during the documentation of Verem.
Thanks also to Lisa-Marie, Kingsley, Earl and Bianca for all the help during the documentation process.
Grateful for the interviews and discussions with all our experts especially Nirmal Kulkarni and Hyacinth Pinto and all our interviewees from each locality.
Thanks also to Bookworm and Sujata for their facilities, books etc.
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